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January 2012
January 24, 2012
January 17, 2012
Killed By Dessert
Last night saw the realization of an experiment, a sort of underground, do-it-yourself dinner event, born out of a casual, bi-coastal conversation on the Twitter-sphere among a few friends and pastry chefs. Bill Corbett, Lincoln Carson, Christina Tosi, Francisco Migoya, Brooks Headley, and I all set up shop in the cavernous Momofuku Milk Bar space in Brooklyn to stage a seated, twelve-course 'dinner' of dessert (we were also compelled to each provide a small savory course to get things rolling). Fifty-nine guests turned out- intentionally intimate- all seated among the racks and shelves, mixers and ovens of the pastry kitchen. The idea was to peel back the curtain, to remove the normal barriers, and most of all, to hang out and have fun.
Our 'manifesto' for the event:
We are pastry chefs. We are the red-headed step-children of the culinary brigade. You’ll find us in the basement, or in some hard-fought and carefully carved-out corner of the kitchen. We are protective of that space, our equipment, our atmosphere. We are particular. We strive to be masters of several disparate disciplines. We are sugar burners, cream puffs, the keepers of ‘Candyland’- and to too many who don’t know any better, we must certainly be just plain ‘bakers’ (not that there's anything wrong with that). We are respected, feared, and ignored.
We are pastry chefs. We treasure our autonomy within the rigid structure around us. We are often left to fend for ourselves and we embrace a do-it-yourself spirit. We are part of a community. We band together, share ideas, and push each other. We take full use of modern technology to create a subterranean network, to shrink the physical space between us. We speak a different language. We seek to explain our intentions through references others just don’t understand. We look at things through a slightly different lens.
We are pastry chefs. We find comfort in repetition and sameness. We are precise, clean, and dexterous. We prefer control to chaos. We are also spontaneous and prone to occasional fits of whimsy. We are students of subtlety. We seek to provide maximum impact. We must predict the future as we cook. We cook with clear intention. We are constantly receptive to inspiration, and that inspiration often comes from the unlikeliest of places. We like to break things that aren’t broken, just to see what happens.
We are pastry chefs. We find pleasure in hidden things. We are often most proud of what you rarely ever get to see. We want to let you in on our secrets. We like to speculate as to what your secrets might be. We are in the nostalgia business, and we have a unique opportunity, nay, a responsibility, to tap into your psyche. We recognize the powerful potential of food as a means of dialog. We want to make you happy.
We are pastry chefs. It is up to us to leave a pleasant last impression. Our work is often an afterthought of guests already satiated by savory. We admit that what we provide is mere luxury, yet we know we satisfy your innermost cravings. Each of us, at one time or another, has wished we could simply send dessert first. This is our chance. We just want to kill you with dessert.
Welcome to Killed by Dessert, a collaboration of far-flung friends- a mere slice of a broad pastry chef community. Spontaneously conceived among the mumblings and rumblings of social media, our vision is to share personal reflections of ‘favorite things’- those things that please us, things that motivate and inspire us, and the processes that often remain hidden in the kitchen. We seek to create an intimate atmosphere, to encourage interaction, and to remove the typical barriers between those who cook and those who eat. Most of all, we simply like the idea of getting together, doing the thing that we like doing most. Lucky you.
And the menu...
"Oasis at Three O'Clock in the Morning"
Falafel, Pine Nut Hummus, Flat Bread
Bill Corbett
"Brupper"
English Muffin, Black Pepper Butter, Caramelized Onions, Soft Poached Egg, Pea Shoots
Christina Tosi
“Wish That I Had Been Born Into It”
Latkes, Smoked Salmon, Caviar and Rose Champagne
Lincoln Carson
“Time”
Dashi-Braised Short Rib, Bone Marrow
Michael Laiskonis
Mole Negro de Oaxaca
Duck and Corn Tortillas
Francisco Migoya
...
“Just Plain Vanilla”
Supported by Mandarin, Buddha’s Hand, Coriander
Lincoln Carson
Delamotte Rose Champagne
Butterscotch Semifreddo, Tony Style
Brooks Headley
Delamotte Rose Champagne
“Words”
Tarte Tropezienne a la Façon Thorne
Michael Laiskonis
Delamotte Rose Champagne
Napoleon Trimmings
Caramelized Puff Pastry Shards, Just-Made Mousseline Cream
Francisco Migoya
Rosa Regale, Brachetto
"Cornflake Cookie Dough Should Make Up 91% of Everyone's Daily Intake, Not Just Mine"
Fresh Cookie Dough, Cookie Puree, Warm Cookie, Cereal milk
Christina Tosi
Domaine Weinbach, Gewürztraminer, Cuvee Theo 2009
"My Family's Lack of a Culinary Legacy" aka "The Only Thing My Mom Ever Taught Me How to Make"
Peanut Butter and Banana Sandwich
Bill Corbett
Kracher Beerenauslese, 2008
"I was Too Picky of a Kid to Ever Understand PB&J"
Crock Pot Cake, Warm Pickled Strawberry Jam, Peanut Butter Halvah, Sweet Cream
Christina Tosi
Kracher Beerenauslese, 2008
INTERMEZZO
Brooks Headley
"Peaks and Valleys"
Milk Chocolate, Tarragon, Hazelnut
Bill Corbett
Warre’s Otima 10 Year Tawny Port
Melanzane E Cioccolato, Tableside
Brooks Headley
Warre’s Otima 10 Year Tawny Port
Coffee Éclair
Francisco Migoya
Knob Creek Bourbon and Coffee Ice Cube
“The Beginning of the End, aka The Old Fashioned”
Orange, Toffee, Smoked Vanilla, Praline, Bourbon
Lincoln Carson
Knob Creek Bourbon and Coffee Ice Cube
“Ritual”
Caramel Coffee Parfait
Michael Laiskonis
Lamill Coffee
By all measures, the four-hour event was a resounding success; the fellow pastry chefs, journalists, and assorted sweet geeks were truly killed by dessert (and a fair amount of booze to go along with it). Of great satisfaction to us was the fact that we were able to strike just the right balance of a loose, punk rock aesthetic with a casually refined atmosphere. It was a monumental logistical feat, planned mostly within the space of a few weeks, and mostly via text and email. And thanks to dozens of volunteers and generous product donations, we were able to support Share Our Strength with the net proceeds. The six of us are already talking about taking the idea to the next level, in a different venue, a different city.
Stay tuned...
