About the Recipes

Recipe Format

In an effort to keep the main posts short and tidy, I've decided to link to the recipes in a downloadable PDF format. I will note the approximate skill level required, the recipe yields (I will always err on the side of having leftovers!), special equipment needed, and any special service items necessary for presentation. And photography will be included when available.

In recipes that require several components, I tend to list these components either in order of importance, length of preparation time, or if that component needs time to rest, bake, chill, soak, infuse, etc. Within the components themselves, ingredients are typically listed in the order that they are to be used, even if that means pre-soaking gelatin, sifting flour, etc. I will often list ingredients that are not assigned a specific measurement; these are typically garnish items, and should be read "as needed" or "to taste".

Ingredients

I’m lucky enough to live in the world’s greatest pantry- New York City. If it exists, it can probably found somewhere in this city, but I realize that this luxury is not always a reality in other places. This is true not only of exotic and foreign items, but also standard pastry items that are sourced easiest through wholesale suppliers and require the purchase of such items in bulk. Highly technical items, like the many “powders” and “chemicals”, are becoming more widely available as more chefs and even some home cooks learn how to use them. The internet, however, has done so much for availability, it almost becomes a non-issue. With enough research and resourcefulness, you should be able to find anything that I do. Of course, I will always provide sources when it really matters. If I am very specific about an ingredient, it’s usually for good reason. And when it really makes a difference, I will from time to time mention specific brand names for ingredients. And yes, there are times I will ‘shill’ for a friend, product, or company I want to support. Just so you know.

Measurement

I am a strong advocate of measuring all ingredients by weight, rather than volume. And I prefer metric weights over imperial ounces and pounds. The primary reason for this is that your cup of flour will never be exactly the same as my cup of flour, but 100 grams of flour will always be exactly the same. And a cup of sifted flour will never be quite the same as one of unsifted flour. The variables are almost endless.

Regrettably, our society missed the metric boat long ago. Recipes scaled in metric system are preferable to imperial (ounces and pounds), due its precision, and the ease with which recipes can be scaled up or down. While some chefs and recipe writers use metric volumes for liquids (milliliters, liters), I still prefer to weigh liquids, so those measurements will always appear in grams.

I highly recommend the investment in a small, battery powered digital scale, preferably capable of measuring in both grams and ounces. These scales are widely available in stores specializing in house wares, and typically cost less than $50. Some advanced recipes published here may call for measurements as small as one-tenth of a gram; small pocket scales calibrated for such tiny measurements can be found through laboratory suppliers and can also cost as little as $50.

As not to alienate or discourage those without such precise scales, I will do my best to provide accurate volume measurements alongside metric weights in all of the recipes. These conversions are indeed our best estimates, and most have been tested in our kitchen. When following these measurements, small variations may result, especially with powerful ingredients that are often measured in precise, tiny amounts.

Ingredients

When it comes to ingredients, there is really only one real philosophy: if you put garbage in, you're gonna get garbage out. Always try to use the best product that you can find and afford. Sometimes it goes beyond sheer deliciousness; if you use cheap chocolate in one of the recipes here, there is a chance that it just plain might not work.

That said, the need for substitutions is a fact of life. In the restaurant, straying from a recipe is not usually encouraged, because we strive for day to day consistency in our products. But for those at home I encourage the occasional detour. Sometimes common sense and a little understanding of how ingredients work is all it takes. That’s how we tend to stumble upon new ideas and recipes, by saying to ourselves, “It’s not really broken, but let’s break it and see what happens anyway!”

In most sorbet and ice cream recipes, I will call for ice cream or sorbet stabilizers. These are typically blends of various gums, alginates or pectins, designed to protect the product from eventaul water crystallization, and to improve the texture of the product. For cooks at home, these ingredients can simply be omitted, as they are difficult to source and are usually unnecessary if the product will be served within a short time.

Equipment

While I seem to spend at least half my days in professional kitchens, I do cook at home too, and realize that the toys we enjoy at work are not always at the ready in home kitchens or easily obtainable by amateur cooks. Most of the recipes you'll encounter here can be replicated with the basics. As with ingredients, when particular tools are either necessary or highly recommended, I will of course provide sources.

When it comes to ovens, it's important to know that no two ovens necessarily act the same. Rack position will influence even baking times, as will "hotspots" peculiar to each individual oven. Clean ovens are also much more efficient than dirty ovens, which may require a longer baking time. Convection ovens- those that circulate air via fan- also bake differently than conventional ovens. And commercial ovens- not to mention commercial ranges which burn much hotter than the average home stove- differ as well. Most of my work is done in a commercial, convection oven. As a general rule of thumb, you'll want to increase the oven temperature up to 50ºF when using a conventional oven; turning the product periodically is also important, to compensate for possible "hotspots".